Witness The Great Migration
Ticked off
Watch thousands of wildebeest hurl themselves off a riverbank into crocodile-filled water, all because one of them finally jumped.
The adventure
For hours nothing happens. The herd gathers on the bank of the Mara River, tens of thousands strong, grunting and jostling, edging forward and backing off while crocodiles drift in the brown water below. Then one wildebeest jumps, and suddenly they're all going: a roaring, dust-choked torrent of bodies plunging down the bank and churning across the current.
Some don't make it. Crocodiles strike, the current sweeps the weak downstream, and lions and hyenas wait on the far side. But most scramble out, shake off and keep moving, part of a loop of roughly 1.5 million wildebeest and hundreds of thousands of zebras and gazelles that follow the rains around the Serengeti and Masai Mara every year. Even away from the rivers, driving through herds that stretch to the horizon is something you never forget.
The cycle starts with calving in the southern Serengeti between December and March, then follows the rain. Because the rains are never quite the same twice, nobody can promise exactly where the herds will be, so it pays to plan your safari around the right region for the month rather than one specific crossing.
Why it’s epic
- Around 1.5 million wildebeest, joined by zebras and gazelles, circle the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem every year.
- River crossings on the Mara and Grumeti, with Nile crocodiles lying in wait.
- Calving season in the southern Serengeti around February, when thousands of calves are born each day.
- Big cats follow the herds, so lion, leopard and cheetah sightings are frequent.
What it is
Around 1.5 million wildebeest and thousands of zebras move between Tanzania and Kenya each year.
How to do it
Plan safaris in the northern Serengeti or Masai Mara for the river crossings.
Top tip
Speak to an operator about where the herds are likely to be.
Need to know
- Crossings are most likely from July to October in the northern Serengeti and Masai Mara, but timing depends on the rains and is never guaranteed.
- Camps near the river sell out early for peak season, so book up to a year ahead.
- You'll need a visa for Tanzania or Kenya (or both), arranged online before travel.
- Speak to your doctor about malaria tablets and vaccinations well before you go.
Plan this trip
- Rough cost
- £2,000 to £5,000 per person, including flights from the UK
- Time needed
- 3 to 7 days
- Best time to go
- July to October for the river crossings
- Fly into
- JRO airport
Peak-season camps, park fees and light-aircraft flights into the northern Serengeti or Mara make this a costly safari.
Sample itinerary
- Day 1Fly into Kilimanjaro (Tanzania) or Nairobi (Kenya)
- Day 2Light aircraft to the northern Serengeti or the Masai Mara
- Days 3–5Morning and afternoon game drives along the Mara River, waiting for a crossing
- Day 6Sunrise balloon flight (optional), then fly back to connect home or to the coast
Do it yourself
- Small-group adventuresMuch Better AdventuresActive small-group trips run by local experts.
- Tours and ticketsGetYourGuide
- FlightsKiwi.com
- Adventure travel insuranceWorld NomadsWe receive a fee when you get a quote from World Nomads using this link. We do not represent World Nomads. This is not a recommendation to buy travel insurance.
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My experience
Ticked off, but the full story is still to be written up.
Over to you
Is “Witness The Great Migration” on your bucket list, or have you already done it? Tell me in the comments, and if you've got a question about it, ask away and I'll answer.