Visit The Faroe Islands

The adventure

The Faroes feel like the edge of the map. Green mountains rise straight out of a grey-blue sea, their tops lost in cloud, and villages of black wooden houses with turf roofs huddle in the coves between them. The name means Sheep Islands, and there are more sheep than people.

The weather changes every few minutes, which is half the point. Sun breaks through and lights a fjord, then rain sweeps in sideways, then a rainbow. At Gásadalur the Múlafossur waterfall drops off a cliff straight into the ocean, and on windy days the spray is blown back up. Roads tunnel under the sea between islands, puffins nest on the cliffs in summer, and you can drive for half an hour without seeing another car.

Why it’s epic

Múlafossur waterfall at Gásadalur, dropping into the Atlantic.
Grass-roofed villages such as Saksun and Gjógv.
Undersea road tunnels linking the islands.
Puffins on Mykines from May to August.

What it is

Eighteen volcanic islands in the North Atlantic, a self-governing part of the Kingdom of Denmark, known for sheer sea cliffs, grass-roofed villages and more sheep than people.

How to do it

Fly to Vágar from Copenhagen, Edinburgh or Reykjavík, or arrive by ferry or cruise. Hire a car: tunnels and causeways connect most islands.

Top tip

Pack for four seasons in a day, and check which hikes need a fee or guide before you set out.

Need to know

The Faroes aren't in the EU or Schengen, though there's no border check from Denmark.
Some popular hikes charge a landowner fee or require a guide.
In winter, short days and storms can close roads and ferries.

Plan this trip

Rough cost: £2,000 to £5,000 per person, including flights from the UK
Time needed: 4 to 7 days
Best time to go: May to August for light; any time for drama
Fly into: FAE airport

Prices are Scandinavian; car hire and accommodation are the big costs.

Do it yourself

My experience

Ticked off, but the full story is still to be written up.