See The Old Bridge At Mostar

The adventure

Stari Most rises from the old town in a single, impossibly thin arch, pale stone against the green hills, with the Neretva rushing emerald-green beneath. The cobbles on top are worn so smooth that ridges have been added to stop you slipping.

It was built in 1566 by the Ottoman architect Mimar Hayruddin and stood for 427 years until it was shelled and destroyed in November 1993. It was rebuilt with stone from the same quarry and reopened in 2004, a symbol of a city putting itself back together. Today the local divers wait on the parapet, collecting money from the crowd before they jump about 20 metres into the cold river below, a tradition recorded since the 17th century.

Why it’s epic

Built in 1566 and rebuilt in 2004 after its destruction in 1993.
Bridge divers jumping into the Neretva, about 20 metres below.
The Ottoman old town, bazaar and mosques around it.

What it is

A single stone arch over the Neretva river, built by the Ottomans in 1566, destroyed in 1993 during the Bosnian war and rebuilt with original techniques and stone. It's now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

How to do it

Mostar is an easy bus or train from Sarajevo and a popular day trip from Dubrovnik.

Top tip

Stay overnight: the bridge is at its best in the evening, after the day-trippers leave.

Need to know

The Convertible Mark (BAM) is the currency; euros are widely accepted.
Summer days are very hot in Mostar's valley.
Never dive yourself without training from the local diving club.

Plan this trip

Rough cost: Under £750 per person, including flights from the UK
Time needed: A day or two
Best time to go: May to October; July for the diving competition
Fly into: SJJ airport

Mostar is good value; day tours from Croatia cost more.

Do it yourself

My experience

Ticked off, but the full story is still to be written up.