Hike The Cinque Terre

The adventure

From the path, Manarola looks almost impossible: a heap of pink, yellow and orange houses piled up a black rock above a tiny harbour, with boats pulled up in the street because there's nowhere else to put them. Then you round a headland and Vernazza appears, and then the next one.

The Cinque Terre's five villages were once reachable only by sea or footpath, and the paths are still the best way to see them, winding through terraced vineyards, olive trees and lemon groves high above the water. Between walks you swim off the rocks, eat focaccia and pesto, which comes from this coast, and drink the local white wine. The railway tunnels along the cliffs, so when your legs give up, the next village is a few minutes away by train.

Why it’s epic

Five villages: Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore.
The Sentiero Azzurro coastal path between them.
Terraced vineyards that took centuries to build.
Pesto, focaccia and Sciacchetrà sweet wine.

What it is

Five fishing villages clinging to the cliffs of the Italian Riviera: Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, linked by coastal paths, a railway and boats.

How to do it

Base yourself in La Spezia, Levanto or one of the villages. The Cinque Terre Card covers the main paths and the local trains.

Top tip

Walk early in the morning or late afternoon, and avoid summer weekends if you can.

Need to know

Some paths close after storms or landslides; check before you go.
The area gets very crowded in summer and with cruise groups.
Proper shoes are expected on the trails, and flip-flops can earn a fine.

Plan this trip

Rough cost: £750 to £2,000 per person, including flights from the UK
Time needed: 1 to 3 days
Best time to go: April to June and September to October
Fly into: PSA airport

Accommodation in the villages is pricey in summer; La Spezia is cheaper.

Do it yourself

My experience

Ticked off, but the full story is still to be written up.