Running the Rome Marathon: a race weekend in Rome
Standing on the start line with the Colosseum right there next to you has to be one of the best race starts ever. Then you run 42 km past 2,000 years of history, and about 7 km of it is on cobbles, which adds an extra challenge.
The day before the Rome Marathon I ran a 5k and then walked 30,000 steps. That's probably a bit silly the day before a marathon, but as they say, when in Rome. The next day I ran 3:17:48, a new PB. So maybe it's not as silly as it sounds. (It is.)
That was March 2026.
The race weekend at a glance
| When | March |
| Getting there | Ryanair from Stansted |
| Where I stayed | Arena House, a guesthouse a short walk from the Colosseum |
| My time | 3:17:48, a PB |
| What it cost | About £960 for two, all in (breakdown below) |
Friday: the expo
Dinner on the Friday, the night before the fun run, was at Pasqualino al Colosseo, a proper Roman trattoria that's been going since 1956. It was round the corner from where we were staying and had good reviews.
Saturday: a 5k, then 30,000 steps
The day before the marathon started with the 5k fun run.
Then a quick shower and straight out to see the sights: all the usual suspects. The Colosseum, the ruins of the Forum, the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps and the Pantheon. Rome rewards walking, just maybe not the day before you race.
Where to eat
Food is half the point of a race weekend in Rome, so here's where we ate:
- Pasqualino al Colosseo: Friday night, before the fun run. A trattoria that's been going since 1956, round the corner from the Colosseum.
- Celio Bistrot: Saturday night, for the proper marathon carb loading.
- Colosseo Risto Bar: post-race munchies on Sunday, because you can eat and look at the Colosseum at the same time.
- Pasqualino al Colosseo, again: Sunday night. The menu was so good, and my legs were toast, so we didn't go far.
Sunday: the race
The start, outside the Colosseum, is worth the entry fee on its own. The first half heads out into the suburbs, and the second half brings you back through the middle of the city past the sights.
Then there are the cobbles. About 7 km of them in total, and you have to watch where you put your feet the whole time or you'll roll an ankle. Not ideal when you're trying to look up at 2,000 years of history.
The crowds were amazing.
It was a cool, cloudy morning, about 9°C, which is perfect marathon weather. I went out with the 3:05 pacer and stuck with him for a pretty long time. I just couldn't hold it. Here's how it went, 5 km at a time, from my watch:
| Kilometres | Average pace |
|---|---|
| 1 to 5 | 4:27/km |
| 6 to 10 | 4:20/km |
| 11 to 15 | 4:26/km |
| 16 to 20 | 4:27/km |
| 21 to 25 | 4:35/km |
| 26 to 30 | 4:51/km |
| 31 to 35 | 4:54/km |
| 36 to 40 | 5:02/km |
| 41 to the finish | 4:47/km |
3:05 pace is about 4:23 a kilometre. For 20 km I was right there, with the fastest kilometre at 4:15 (getting carried away, obviously). Halfway went by in about 1:34. Then the wheels started coming off. Kilometre 21 was the first proper slow one, and from 26 km onwards every kilometre was slower than the last few. The second half took about 1:44.
The final 10 km of a marathon is always pain and misery. Yet I keep signing up for more. And somehow it was still a PB by 7 minutes. First half went great, second half not so much. Onwards and upwards.
TOP TIP: Keep your eyes on the ground on the cobbled sections. Look at the sights on the 5k the day before, not during the race.
What it cost
For two of us, Friday to Monday:
- Marathon and 5k fun run entries: €154
- Flights from Stansted: £470 (we didn't book early enough)
- Arena House, three nights: £341
- Rome city tax: €5 per person per night on top, so €30
That's about £960 all in, or roughly £480 each.
TOP TIP: Book early. The flights cost us more than the hotel because we left it too late, and race weekend prices only go one way.
Quick answers
Is the Rome Marathon good for a PB? Not really. The cobbles see to that. Although I did get a PB, so don't let that put you off.
How many days do you need in Rome? Friday to Monday was enough for the expo, a 5k, the race and the big sights. If you want to see Rome properly, add a day or two after the race when your legs work again.
Would I do it again?
Yes. It's a race for anyone who wants to combine sightseeing with a marathon. A running couple's break, maybe. Just don't go chasing a PB. Enjoy the start, mind your ankles on the cobbles, and look around.
If it's on your list, book it early and go.
Over to you
Have you run Rome, or is it on your list? Tell me your favourite marathon start line, or ask me anything about the race.