
Chill In Cartagena
Ticked off in April 2016
Bougainvillea spilling over colonial balconies, Caribbean breezes on the city walls and salsa pouring out of Getsemaní late into the night.
The adventure
Cartagena was founded in 1533 and grew rich as a port for Spanish treasure fleets, which made it a target. Francis Drake captured and ransomed it in 1586, and over the following centuries the Spanish wrapped the old city in thick stone walls and built Castillo San Felipe de Barajas on the hill outside, the largest fortress they ever built in the Americas.
Today the walls are the best place in town at sunset, cold drink in hand, as the sky turns pink over the Caribbean. Inside, the streets are a riot of colour: ochre and turquoise houses, wooden balconies dripping with flowers, and palenqueras in bright dresses balancing bowls of fruit on their heads. In the evening, cross into Getsemaní, where murals cover the walls and Plaza de la Trinidad fills with street performers, food stalls and music.
Why it’s epic
- Around 11 kilometres of stone walls ring the old city, built to keep out pirates and enemy fleets.
- Castillo San Felipe de Barajas is the largest fortress Spain built in the Americas.
- Getsemaní's street art and nightly buzz in Plaza de la Trinidad.
- Day trips by boat to the coral reefs and white sand of the Rosario Islands.
What it is
Cartagena's walled old town is a UNESCO site with colourful colonial buildings, plazas and balconies covered in bougainvillea.
How to do it
Fly into Cartagena and stay in the old town or Getsemaní. Take a day trip to the Rosario Islands.
Top tip
Explore in the early morning or evening to avoid the midday heat.
Need to know
- It's hot and humid all year, with highs around 30°C; December to April is the driest season.
- Use official taxis or ride apps at night and watch for pickpockets in busy areas.
- Rosario Islands trips vary hugely in quality, so choose a reputable operator.
Plan this trip
- Rough cost
- £2,000 to £5,000 per person, including flights from the UK
- Time needed
- 2 to 4 days
- Best time to go
- December to April
- Fly into
- CTG airport
Long-haul flights are the main cost; boutique hotels in the walled city are pricier than Getsemaní.
Do it yourself
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My experience
Ticked off, but the full story is still to be written up.

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