Climb Mt McKinley, Summit Of North America

The adventure

Denali is a giant of the far north, rising around 5,500 metres from the lowlands to its 6,190-metre summit, one of the biggest base-to-summit rises of any mountain on land. Expeditions begin with a ski-plane flight from Talkeetna that lands on the Kahiltna Glacier, followed by around three weeks of hauling heavy sleds and packs up the West Buttress, building snow walls around your tent and waiting out storms.

The climbing isn't extreme, but everything else is. Temperatures can fall below -30°C, winds can pin you in camp for days, and this far north the thin air feels even higher than the map says. From the camp at 14,200 feet, fixed ropes lead up a steep headwall to the exposed crest of the ridge, and on summit day you cross the Football Field and climb the final ridge with Alaska's glaciers spread out beneath you in the near-endless daylight of an Alaskan summer.

Why it’s epic

Standing on the highest point in North America at 6,190 metres, one of the Seven Summits.
Landing on the Kahiltna Glacier by ski plane from Talkeetna.
One of the biggest base-to-summit rises of any mountain on land, at around 5,500 metres.
Almost round-the-clock daylight in May and June.

What it is

Denali, formerly Mount McKinley, is North America's highest peak at 6,190 metres.

How to do it

Climbers register with the National Park Service, fly from Talkeetna to base camp and usually climb the West Buttress route with a guide.

Top tip

Cold is the main danger; prepare for temperatures below -30°C.

Need to know

Every climber must register with the National Park Service at least 60 days ahead and pay a mountaineering fee.
Most expeditions take about three weeks, and you carry and haul your own loads, so strength and glacier skills matter.
Prepare for temperatures below -30°C, and get insurance that covers mountaineering rescue.
The US government officially renamed the mountain Mount McKinley in 2025, though most climbers still call it Denali.

Plan this trip

Rough cost: £5,000 or more per person, including flights from the UK
Time needed: 3 weeks
Best time to go: May to June
Fly into: ANC airport

Guide fees, glacier flights, park fees and serious cold-weather kit make it costly, though far cheaper than Everest.

Make it happen

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Why it’s on my list

Not done yet. If you’ve done it and have tips, tell me about it.