Open The Door To Hell
Still to do
Camp beside a burning crater in the Karakum Desert and feel its heat on your face as the flames roar.
The adventure
The most common story is that Soviet engineers drilling for gas in 1971 hit a cavern, the ground collapsed, and they set the escaping methane alight, expecting it to burn out in a few weeks. Its exact origins are murky, but the fire has outlasted the Soviet Union. Today the Darvaza crater is around 70 metres wide, a pit in the middle of the desert lined with hundreds of small fires.
It is a long drive north from Ashgabat, the last stretch by 4x4 over sand. By day it's a smoking hole; after dark it becomes something else. The rim glows orange, the heat pushes you back a step, and the roar of the flames fills the silent desert. Later, at camp, you eat by the fire under a sky crowded with stars, with the glow of the crater still lighting the horizon.
Why it’s epic
- The crater is around 70 metres across and has been burning for decades.
- Turkmenistan is one of the least visited countries in the world.
- Ashgabat holds a Guinness World Record for its density of white marble buildings.
- The flames have reportedly been dwindling as nearby gas wells capture more methane, so its days may be numbered.
What it is
The Darvaza gas crater, known as the Door to Hell, has been burning since it was set alight in 1971.
How to do it
Turkmenistan requires a tourist visa arranged through a licensed agency, which will organise a 4x4 trip from Ashgabat and a night camping by the crater.
Top tip
Visit after dark when the glow is most dramatic.
Need to know
- A tourist visa needs a letter of invitation arranged through a licensed Turkmen travel agency, and a guide must accompany you outside Ashgabat.
- The crater is a drive of several hours from Ashgabat, finishing off-road by 4x4.
- Desert nights can be cold in spring and autumn, so pack warm layers for camping.
Plan this trip
- Rough cost
- £2,000 to £5,000 per person, including flights from the UK
- Time needed
- 1 night
- Best time to go
- April to May, September to October
- Fly into
- ASB airport
Turkmenistan's agency-only travel rules, guides and 4x4 transfers make it pricier than its neighbours.
Make it happen
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Why it’s on my list
Not done yet. If you’ve done it and have tips, tell me about it.
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