
Visit Borobudur
Ticked off
A 1,200-year-old stone mountain of Buddhas, rising above the palms of Java as dawn mist lifts off the volcanoes.
The adventure
Borobudur was built in the 8th and 9th centuries, then abandoned and slowly buried under volcanic ash and jungle until a survey ordered by Stamford Raffles uncovered it in 1814. Today it rises in nine stacked terraces from the green plain of Central Java, with Mount Merapi smoking on the horizon.
The temple is designed as a pilgrimage. You walk clockwise around each level, past 2,672 carved panels that tell the life of the Buddha and lessons of cause and effect, climbing from the world of desire towards enlightenment. At the top, the carvings stop. Instead there are 72 bell-shaped stone stupas, each latticed so you can glimpse a seated Buddha inside, gathered around one great central stupa. At sunrise, with mist pooling in the valleys and the volcanoes turning pink, it is very hard to leave.
Why it’s epic
- 2,672 carved relief panels and 504 Buddha statues.
- 72 latticed stupas on the upper terraces, each with a Buddha inside.
- Mount Merapi, one of Indonesia's most active volcanoes, on the horizon.
- A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1991, after a major restoration in the 1970s and early 1980s.
What it is
Borobudur is the world's largest Buddhist temple, built in the 9th century with 504 Buddha statues and thousands of carved panels.
How to do it
Stay in Yogyakarta, about an hour away. Access to the upper levels is limited and must be booked in advance.
Top tip
Combine it with the Hindu temples of Prambanan on the same day.
Need to know
- Climbing to the upper terraces is limited to a set number of visitors a day, wearing special woven sandals, so book ahead.
- Sunrise from Setumbu Hill nearby gives the classic view of the temple rising out of the mist.
- Dress modestly; a sarong is usually provided at the entrance.
Plan this trip
- Rough cost
- £2,000 to £5,000 per person, including flights from the UK
- Time needed
- Half a day
- Best time to go
- April to October
- Fly into
- YIA airport
Long-haul flights to Indonesia are the main cost; Yogyakarta hotels and guides are good value.
Do it yourself
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My experience
Ticked off, but the full story is still to be written up.

Over to you
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