Conquer The Majestic Pamir Mountains

The adventure

The Pamir Highway climbs onto the Roof of the World, a high, empty plateau where the air is thin, the skies are huge and the road is often more potholes than tarmac. From Dushanbe or Khorog you follow the Panj River, with Afghanistan so close across the water that you can wave to villagers on the other side, then turn into the Wakhan Valley, where the snowy wall of the Hindu Kush fills the horizon.

Higher up, the landscape turns lunar. Yaks graze beside turquoise lakes, Kyrgyz herders live in yurts, and Murghab feels like a frontier town at the edge of the world. The road crosses the Ak-Baital Pass at 4,655 metres, then drops past the huge high lake of Karakul towards Kyrgyzstan. Nights are spent in family homestays over bread, tea and dried apricots, and days are measured in kilometres of gravel and views that stop you mid-sentence.

Why it’s epic

Crossing the Ak-Baital Pass at 4,655 metres, the highest point of the Pamir Highway.
The Wakhan Valley, with Afghanistan across the river and the Hindu Kush beyond.
Karakul, a vast lake at around 3,900 metres near the Kyrgyz border.
Homestays with Pamiri families in remote mountain villages.

What it is

The Pamir Highway is one of the world's highest roads, crossing remote mountains in Tajikistan.

How to do it

Hire a 4x4 and driver in Dushanbe or Osh, or cycle it. You'll need a GBAO permit.

Top tip

Carry cash; there are very few ATMs in the Pamirs.

Need to know

You need a GBAO permit for the Pamirs, which you can usually add when applying for a Tajik e-visa.
June to September is the season, and outside it the high passes can be snowbound.
Check UK Foreign Office advice, especially for areas near the Afghan border, and make sure your insurance covers high altitude.
Carry cash in somoni and US dollars, as ATMs are rare beyond Khorog.

Plan this trip

Rough cost: £750 to £2,000 per person, including flights from the UK
Time needed: 1 to 2 weeks
Best time to go: June to September
Fly into: DYU airport

Homestays and food are cheap; hiring a 4x4 and driver is the biggest cost, and much less if you share.

Make it happen

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Why it’s on my list

Not done yet. If you’ve done it and have tips, tell me about it.