Bucket List / Adventure Travel Goals
Climb Mt Aconcagua, Summit Of South America
Still to do
The highest mountain outside the Himalaya, where the climbing is simple and the altitude, cold and wind are anything but.
The adventure
Aconcagua rises out of the Andes close to the Chilean border, a huge, dry, wind-scoured mountain that is the highest point anywhere outside the great ranges of Asia. On the Normal Route it isn't technical, which is exactly what makes it deceptive, because the altitude, the cold and the notorious viento blanco winds do the real work.
The approach follows the Horcones Valley beneath the immense south face to Plaza de Mulas, a busy base camp at around 4,300 metres. Then come days of carrying loads up and sleeping higher, through Nido de Cóndores and the high camps, before a pre-dawn summit day that ends in the Canaleta, a punishing scree gully where every step costs several breaths. At the top, 6,961 metres up, the Andes roll away in every direction under a sky so dark it is almost navy.
Why it’s epic
- The highest summit in both the Western and Southern Hemispheres, at 6,961 metres.
- One of the Seven Summits, and classic altitude training before Denali or Everest.
- Walking in beneath the vast south face on the Horcones Valley approach.
- The final push up the Canaleta, a steep scree gully just below the summit.
What it is
At 6,961 metres, Aconcagua is the highest mountain outside Asia and the highest in the Americas.
How to do it
Most climbers use the Normal Route from the Horcones Valley with a guided expedition. A climbing permit from Mendoza is required.
Top tip
Altitude is the main danger, so follow a slow acclimatisation plan.
Need to know
- You must buy a climbing permit for Aconcagua Provincial Park in Mendoza, and it costs more in the peak season around Christmas and January.
- Allow 18 to 21 days, as most failed attempts come from rushing acclimatisation.
- Rangers carry out medical checks at base camp, and your insurance must cover high-altitude rescue.
- Mendoza is the gateway, usually reached via Buenos Aires or Santiago.
Plan this trip
- Rough cost
- £2,000 to £5,000 per person, including flights from the UK
- Time needed
- 18 to 21 days
- Best time to go
- December to February
- Fly into
- MDZ airport
The park permit, guide team and mule support make up most of the cost, and all three rise in peak season.
Sample itinerary
- Days 1–2Fly to Mendoza and collect your climbing permit
- Days 3–5Trek in to Plaza de Mulas or Plaza Argentina base camp
- Days 6–14Carry loads and acclimatise between the high camps
- Day 15Summit day (6,961m), then down to base camp
- Days 16–19Spare weather days, trek out and celebrate with Malbec in Mendoza
Make it happen
- FlightsKiwi.com
- HotelsBooking.com
- Adventure travel insuranceWorld NomadsWe receive a fee when you get a quote from World Nomads using this link. We do not represent World Nomads. This is not a recommendation to buy travel insurance.
Some of these are affiliate links: if you book through them I may earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you. More about this.
Why it’s on my list
Not done yet. If you’ve done it and have tips, tell me about it.
More about Argentina: travel guide, my photos and races.
Over to you
Have you done this one? Tell me how it went, with any tips, in the comments. It's still on my list.